Side trip by Ferry to Tangier Island which is sinking!

July 15, 2018

I had read and heard a lot about Tangier Island on our first visit to the Chesapeake but unfortunately we never made it over on Laughter. This time it was at the top of my list of places to visit but because it was somewhat difficult to access in a larger boat we were hesitant. I  happily discovered that we could drive to Reedville and take the ferry over to Tangier for a day trip. Sounding like a much more practical solution we made the arrangements to visit Tangier.
Why Tangier, Why was I drawn to this small island? I felt drawn to the simplicity described in the magazines island known as the "Soft Shell Crab Capital of the World", and like many others who came, Tangier is sinking and we wanted to see it before it was gone. It is only 3 feet about tide level and if that isn't enough it is also eroding, loosing about 15 foot of land a year! Tangier has lost two-thirds of its land since 1850.
A warm but not hot day,  blue skies and calm waters made for a really nice ride across the bay.
As our ferry entered the creek and slowly made its way to the dock, wooden piers, many in disrepair, platforms with shacks and long troughs of water stood in a row out in the water.  The crabbers buzzed around in their skiffs and larger crabbing boats came and went unloading their catch and returning to the bay. Work boats buzzing around like bees  as they brought in their catch of the day. Men young and old in their waterproof overalls and tall boots scurrying around on their platforms.  This is what we saw as we pulled into the harbor dock. A working village today as it was back in the day. No large processing plants or modern equipment, just men and their boats working the water, professional crabbers as were their grandparents and parents.
The town has a main street with several shops and a couple of restaurants. Tom and I choose to rent a golf cart so we could wander the entire island, which was easily done in a little over an hour. What an adventure, we were definitely off the grid, driving down narrow roads, paths that led nowhere, and The sad fact about Tangier is that it is sinking.  It was also washing away about 3 inches per year along the shoreline. Government funding has allowed rip rap to be put along the shore on one side of the island to stop the erosion and it is hoped that the other side can be done soon. Because the island is sinking many of the yards are mushy and the residents have built ramps to keep their cars up off of the ground.  We saw marshlands a very nice beach and standing water in many of the yards.  The houses are very modest, and many are in need of repair.  We drove down to the marina which was basically a large wooden dock with 3 slips.  We were fortunate enough to meet Mr. Sparks. The 85 year owner. He is known throughout the boating world.
I really wanted to get out to one of the crab shacks to take photos and get a better understanding of the evolution of a soft shell crab. I asked around and learned that the mayor, of all people, will take you out for a little fee. I was given his description and told to wait at the dock because he usually comes by the same time everyday. I patiently waited on the dock watching the supply boat unload boxes to people who then loaded them in their golf carts and an occasional truck.  The waterman were coming up to pick up special boxes from the boat for transporting their crabs. About the time  I was going to give up because time was near for us to get back on the ferry when the mayor pulled up . I asked if he could take 15 minutes to show me his operation because that was about all the time I had before the ferry left.
He hesitated for a moment then agreed for $15.00. I hobbled into his skiff with my big boot and off we went. Once up on the dock of his operation I received a quick lesson on the evolution of a soft shell crab. The crabber places a male crab or two in his trap. The male gives off pheromones that attract a female that is ready to molt. Female crabs molt in the summer. They have a tell tale mark on their claw that is white or red. The formal name for these females is Peeler.  Once caught they are placed in tanks and checked about every three hours. Once they molt the male will mate with them and then hug them until their shell is sufficiently hard to protect themselves. Peelers once molted must be moved to a different tank otherwise their peer will eat them. Peelers with white marks are in one tank when the marks turn red they are moved to the "watch tank".  Once molted the peeler is placed in refrigeration colder than 50 degrees to keep the shell from hardening before going to market.  It is obviously a lot of work. You not only catch the crabs you must keep a close eye on them to make your catch worth while. The mayor told me that once he brought up a trap that had 30 females in it. He said that was one stud male crab! He showed me an empty shell of a peeler. You would never know it was just her shell as it was perfect. They just back out of them. He then picked up the female that had just molted. Her shell was soft and leather like. It felt odd as the feel was totally opposite of her look.
How do you tell a male from a female. Part of the bottom of a male crab called the apron is in the shape of the Washington monument. The apron on the bottom of a female is the shape of the US capital building. Also the claws of a male are bright blue those of the female are red tipped. Its as if she has nail polish on. If you google female blue crab molting you can see a video of one backing out of her shell.

                               This was the road on the way to the beach. It ended with no place to park except
                                on the side of the road. We then walked a ways on a somewhat muddy trail to
                               arrive at the beach which was very nice, no garbage but lots of grass that washed
                               up on shore.

                       Definitely a one cart road back to town proper. Not wide enough for one of the few
                      automobiles on the island.

                     The cemetery plots were above ground because of the water table. There were also a
                     few graves in the front of homes.

 Still had their Trump signs in the yard

Garbage cans filled with nets and bouys

                                           This guy lived in the front yard of one of the shops

                                                                    Our ferry

                            People picking up their supplies personally as well as for the restaurants
                           and shops from the mail boat.

                                      One of the oyster shacks that has been abandoned

                                                A waterman's work boat called a deadrise

                                     A row of waterman's crab operations. Each hut and long pier represents
                                  one families business.

            These are the Pellers, they are in a long tub while the watermen waits for them to mulch

                         When ready and the process is about to begin they are moved to a smaller area

                   His line of tanks. Fresh water constantly runs through the tanks to keep the
                  crabs alive.

                                          The one on the left is a male. The one on the right with the red dot
                                    is the female Peller who will be sold as a soft shell crab once she molts.
                                  Once molted they must be refrigerated at 50 degrees to keep their shell from
                                 hardening.

                                        Many of the operations have been abandoned. I would love to
                                         have had time to take a bunch of photos to print..

                           Not only did they leave their operation they left their boat which is now in
                          the mud.

                                             Coming back into Reedville on the Ferry

                                   This Osprey nest like so many we have seen is on the green which our Ferry
                              had to pass extremely close to for depth purposes.

                                   Mama was not happy with us as she had two little ones and we
                               were to close for her comfort.

                                             Reedville had some beautiful old homes

Introduction to Urbanna Va.

June 30, 2019
The beginning of our month in Urbanna Va

Imagine driving across a  bridge with a Creek, the size of a lake, on your left and a marina on the same beautiful creek on your right. A sight that's beautiful and relaxing, welcoming you to the small town you call home. This area of the Chesapeake was explored and settled by Native American tribes around 100 BC. The tribe Nimcocks, meaning Indians who live in towns, cleared the land and built huts surrounded by fencing for protection. Their cleared land was taken to establish plantations and they were forced to move North. The population of Urbanna is about 560 people. It was established in the  late 17th century and a result of the 1680 Acts of Assembly. They ordered local officials to establish twenty 50 acre port towns and Urbanna was one. It was officially established as a town in 1706. The name Urbanna means Town of Anne in honor of Queen Anne of England. It is one of the oldest towns in the USA. Sailing vessels from London, Liverpool, Bristol and Glasgow were a common sight in the port of Urbanna. The ships were manned by British crews and owned by English and Scottish merchants who came seeking tobacco in exchange for European goods, wines and rum. Urbanna was a major port for the exportation of tobacco to Europe.
  We are at the town marina, a very nice facility. Our view of the bay and the river are beautiful and the locals are warm and friendly. This is true whether you are in a store or on the street. We have been here a month and have not met a rude person yet!! Can you believe that!  I once said when I retire I would like to live in a town where I could walk to the grocery, enjoy a cup of coffee at a local coffee shop after my morning walk each day and actually know the people I say good morning to.
Urbanna would be that town! The homes range in size from majestic to humble all neat and many historic landmarks that owners have painstakingly renovated.

                                                 Sunrise from the marina dock

                                                                         Main Street

                      The beach across from the marina, the Rappahanek River is on the other side
                       of the beach.

A change of scenary does wonders for your mental health

July 1

The mechanic checked out our engines and generator now that Laughter was in the water. The geni would not start at all and we needed the alternator rebuilt on an engine.  In the meantime we drove home because our house had sold and it needed to be emptied and closing papers signed. When we returned the alternator had still not come back and the generator still would not start.
When I broke my ankle and Peanuts tumor was found I made the conscious decision that things happen for a reason and for some reason we were not meant to leave yet. I worked hard to keep my spirits up and attitude positive. We were coming up to two months as DYC and I admitted to Tom  that I could really use a change in scenery and not just a nice car ride.  I was tired of walking in a gravel parking, no view of the water from our boat and few people to talk to. Our second month was up in a few days and I did not want to pay to stay longer. Thank goodness Tom felt the same. A town that was only 11 miles up river so we went for a ride to check it out. We loved what we saw, but what about the alternator it still had not come. DYC graciously said they would have the mechanic bring the alternator to Urbanna since we had waited so long for it. Yahoo!
July 1 we pulled out of Deltaville and limped our way up to Urbanna on one engine. It was a beautiful day, flat water and we didn't care that we could only go 5knots, we were on the water!

Gentleman oyster farming

June 20, 2018
This past Saturday Deltaville held "Deltaville Days".  Saturday and Sunday the marinas and boatyards hold open houses. Deltaville Yachting Center, DYC, had music and free oysters on the half shell. We could not have chosen a a better marina to host our boat since Tom loves oysters on the half shell. The reception area was set up at the front of the marina which just so happened to be straight across from us.  From time to time Tom would mosey over from the boat for an oyster.  There didn't seem to be many people stopping by so Tom figured it wasn't a problem to make multiple visits for an oyster. Late in the afternoon just before closing Tom seemed to be MIA. It wasn't to hard to figure out where to look first. There, under the tent cover, visiting with the oyster man sat Tom. Upon his return to the boat he proudly announced that the gentlemen serving oysters was Don and Don has an oyster farm. Not being a lover of oysters my response was less than enthusiastic. But then Tom announced that we were invited to visit his little farm. Now I was interested. I may not eat them but I was interested in learning how someone goes about growing oysters.  Our visit the next week was great. I learned a lot but was still not convinced to eat one.
A few facts:   If the water freezes the oysters will go into hibernation which makes chances of
                       survival good.
                       If the water is low such as low tide and there are no waves lapping the
                      the bags they will not survive.
                      These oysters are called triploid oysters, they are highly resistive to disease, grow
                      fast and are sterile, which means that instead of using their energy to reproduce
                      they use all of it to grow.  This allows them to grow twice as fast and be harvested
                      all year round.
                      if the salinity of the water goes below .5 the oysters will die. This year has been a
                     problem because the high amounts of rainfall.

                  Bags of Oyster Shells are stacked in his yard. He sells them and they are also used to help
                  establish new oyster beds in the area.

                  This is a view of his gentleman oyster farm from his yard.  The oysters are in bags that
                  are floating just below the waters surface.

                      Oysters being kept in a strainer bucket in the water

                     Each of these mesh bags holds about 200 oysters. if more are stuffed in the bags there
                     will not be enough water flow to sustain them.

                         Don loves sharing information about his oyster farm and oyster farming in general.
                   He talks to schools and organizations about the positive effect oysters have on the bay.
                   Oysters filter the water, which improves the quality of the water in the Bay.

                         These are samples of baby oysters. These did not survive. Don had purchased 100,00
                          that morning.

             As the oysters grow he changes the size of the mesh bags. Each bag has different sized holes.
             He sifts(shakes) the babies once per week and flips the bag.  After a period of growth he
             moves them to a larger bag. The bag is then sifted, those that fall out go back in the bags with
             the small holes. The older oysters are sifted and flipped every two weeks.  It takes 11/2 - 3
             yrs, for them to be large enough(3 inches) to harvest and sell. Don uses 2 liter water bottles
             filled with water, frozen then tied to the bags as floatation devices.

                    Tom bought 2 dozen oysters straight from the water. Don hosed them off for him.  Don
                    also has an area in another creek he manages. He sells about 100,000 oysters a year. He
                    told us he will ship 100 oysters for $100.

Toms take home

                                          Shipping boxes for the oysters.

                                         Dons wife makes things out of the oyster shells

                                    This is one of the baby oyster bags. They are double bagged to keep the crabs,
                                  otters and rays from eating them.

Plans are made but plans can change

June 4, 2018

The boat was in the water, but we were still waiting on two parts. One for the starboard engine and one for the generator. We had taken Peanut to the vet two weeks ago because she had a UTI. The vet was great, treated the UTI and an infection in her feet from chewing on them. We changed her diet as recommended and took her back for a checkup.  We had him look at what we thought was a fatty tumor. It was not. It was a mast cell tumor which is cancerous and needed to be taken off ASAP. In the meantime I visited an art festival in Urbanna on Saturday, June 2nd. While enjoying the art I stepped in a hole and rolled my right ankle. The pain wasn't bad at first so slowly walked to the truck, made 2 more stops and headed to the boat. By the time I reached the boat I was limping and my ankle had swollen to three times it size but the pain was still minimal.
We iced my ankle and decided I better have an x-ray.  Unbelievable!!! Hairline fracture. The good news a boot verses a cast and 5 weeks rather than 6-8.  No weight bearing for the first two weeks so hopefully I wont fall using the crutches and brake something else! The bad news, our plan to do the Down East Loop was now on hold.

Back on Laughter - preparing for a new adventure

May 4, 2018

It has been 17 months since we have been to the boat. Laughter was put up on the hard  at Deltaville Yachting Center in Oct. of 2016 because Tom was scheduled for back surgery in December. We emptied her out, winterized her and headed for home. After such a long period of time we began to wonder if we should return or just put her up for sale. I wondered if Tom would have the flexibility to handle the boat after witnessing first hand his long recovery.
But we both really wanted to finish these last two legs of our journey. The Down East Loop this summer then through the great lakes and back to where we started in Lake Michigan next summer.
Laughter was in better shape than we had imagined she would be when we arrived, It took us three weeks of hard work to clean and restock her. We started talking with boaters who passed through and that's all it took. The boating bug returned!  Our splash date was May 30th and we were excited and nervous.  Gently placed in the water Tom was given the word to start her up. I was on the dock holding my breath and crossing my fingers. It seemed like forever but then there it was. Baroooooom, the wonderful sound of diesel engines firing up. She was running. As I let out a Whoo Hoo, I heard the same from inside the boat.
 Getting into a fifteen foot slip with a beam of 14.3 in strong current was going to be a challenge. Tom had not driven in almost two years and standing on the dock with Peanut I was concerned. I paced with nervous energy as Laughter passed the boats on the long dock. As they came into view I let out a sigh of relief and a smile.Tom was holding a boat hook on deck and the mechanic was driving. As they turned the corner I expressed concern to the dock hand. There is no way she is going to fit. Well, she did with an inch on each side to spare! Check out my face book page for the video as it would not post on here.
It felt so good to be on the water. The wind, the sloshing under the bow as boats came by and that oh so slight rocking motion. Sleeping tonight would be wonderful!

  We lived in our RV for almost a month as we scrubbed, resupplied and readied Laughter to go back in the water

                                                   Tom scraping and painting the bottom

                 A bird decided to build her nest in our exhaust pipe and as you can see below she was
                 not very happy.

                       The day she went in the water was exciting and worrisome. Would she start?

                     To hear those engines and see her moving along to the slip was a happy happy day!