April 3
We wanted to experience the remainder of Big Exuma, visiting a few of the settlements and places we had read and heard about. We also wanted to visit Little Exuma to the South so we rented a car, packed a few snacks and headed North first. The roads are narrow and in many places the edges were eaten away. When your not used to driving on the wrong side of the narrow roads, those holes seem to appear and swallow your tires more than you would like. After a couple of hours of driving I wondered if we would return the car with all four tires still attached. Northbound we passed many a vacant and partially completed homes. Once we were a ways from Georgetown there were few settlements. Most of the area uninhabited. We did come across two resorts. Emerald Bay and a Sandals. Both were situated on beautiful beaches although Emerald Bay would not allow us to come in and drive around. A left turn from the main highway took us to Barraterre. A very small settlement at the end of a T road. I had read about Fishermans lodge, a restaurant owned and run by a character named Norm. We found nothing on our own that resembled a restaurant so we stopped to ask. A gentleman pointed down the road towards a small white building. We pulled into the gravel area that sort of resembled a parking lot and I elected Tom to be the one to investigate. We had found it! There was no sign or indication of any kind that it was a restaurant! Inside there was a little bar and enough room for one little table. We had to wait while Norm thawed and cooked our meals so we ordered a drink, and had a look around. A lady came over bringing a bottle of oil for Norman. Following her delivery she came over and stood next to me. We looked out over the rocky cliff we were on to the water below and the islands nearby. She was quiet and unless I asked her a question just stood beside me in silence. Unfortunately neither Tom nor I got her name but she did tell me she was Norms sister . Dinner was ready, Norms sister headed for a house across the lot and I headed for the diner. Toms lobster and my grouper were phenomenal. I was a little taken back by its presentation, head and all, but didn't let on and since then have had my fish served whole several times. Norm was also a man of few words. He politely answered questions and when Tom told him he was famous as he was listed in a boaters guide, he smiled from ear to ear. Norm explained that at one time the diner was twice the size but a fire had taken half of it in 2006. He also told us that Hughrie, the boat builder we met earlier was his brother. It was now after 6pm and time to head back to Georgetown and the boat. We didn't find the Loyalists settlement, or the pothole farm but what we did experience was priceless.
Hughrie told us he taught himself to build boats when he was a young man and builds about 4 a year for people.
These are the same type of sailing boats used in the Regattas
This was our view as we came to the top of a hill. We pulled over to take the photo.
Norms Fisherman's Lodge. We told him and his sister that he needs a sign. She said she would encourage him to put one up. He just said I probably should.
This is the little outside bar next to his restaurant
Our meals. We even had placemats at our little table
Norm and I
